#SeeMVwithMe

When I first moved to Martha’s Vineyard, I knew I wanted to take my audience on a historical narrative through the island and especially highlight Black contributions to this space. I have done that on my Instagram page and I’m so glad Tina Smith came all this way so we could make it happen. I wanted to have all my posts in one place here on the platform I actually own. My Martha’s Vineyard series will culminate with a tour guide full of my recommendations for where to stay, what to see, and where to eat. Stay Tuned! Whether you’ve read these posts before or are reading for the very first time, I hope you enjoy and see the beauty and magic that is MVY. Without further ado:

Oak Bluffs Cottages

Let’s start off in my favorite town: Oak Bluffs. In 1835, members of the Edgartown Methodist Church secured this land so they could hold summer religious camp meetings. This site became known as Wesleyan Grove. Developers erected a semicircle of tents as a form of housing for meeting attendees. As Wesleyan Grove became one of the best known annual camp meeting sites in the US, the number of tents increased from 9 to 200!

As time went on, more family tents were erected and meeting attendees began to spend more time on the island. Quite interestingly, the family tents were built in circular patterns around their home church tent and each individual tent group spiraled outwardly from the main church tent.

In the mid 1800’s, the building of Martha’s Vineyard iconic cottages began in order to accommodate the more frequent campground meetings. These cottages were small in stature to imitate the tents they replaced. First known as Cottage City, this area was home to 500 cottages. The name of the town changed to Oak Bluffs in 1880. The architectural style—Carpenter’s Gothic—was very popular at the time. The cottage owners would paint and decorate their homes with the brightest colors and ornaments! Y’all know I’m here for that! As a result, the homes became known as gingerbread houses. A total of 300 gingerbread houses are still standing in the Oak Bluffs Campground. The colors are so stunning…and match my wardrobe perfectly! 

Oak Bluffs Campground Tabernacle

As a continuation of the post above: After the cottages replaced campground tents, the main worship tent also got a makeover in 1879. One of the cottage owners built the current standing Tabernacle out of wrought iron and the doors opened for the first service July of that year. Now the Tabernacle serves as a religious hub and cultural center and has for over a century. The Campground is now considered a historic landmark and welcomes visitors of all faiths year round. They still host Bible Study and Worship Services each season!

And annually—on every third Wednesday in August—this beautiful Tabernacle hosts the lighting of the first lantern for Grand Illumination Night. Then visitors from all around can see the Campground’s stunningly quaint homes decorated with thousands of Japanese lanterns to light up the night. The first Grand Illumination Night in 1869 was meant to celebrate the arrival of the Massachusetts Governor. Now it’s an annual celebration that draws many!

The Inkwell

Y’all, I find so much peace here on this beach positioned in Oak Bluffs. Sometimes I come here just to watch the ocean move; taking in the Beautiful vastness that is God’s Creation. In the mid-20th century, Oak Bluffs was the only 1 of 6 Martha’s Vineyard towns to welcome Black people. In the days of Jim Crow, Blacks were often turned away from beaches and hotels. Freed slaves sought shelter here in the 19th century. In the 1930s and 40s, Blacks in nearby cities such as Boston, NYC, and DC began to establish themselves as members of the elite and middle classes and frequented Oak Bluffs as vacationers. This part of the island has seen the likes of Maya Angelou, Harry Belafonte, Martin Luther King, Langston Hughes, Zora Neale Hurston, and so many other Black literati.

The Inkwell is one of Oak Bluffs’ most popular areas and its name pays homage to vacationers’ Black skin; noted to “glisten like ink in the hot sun.” Here, Black folks continue to congregate every year for beach parties, bonfires, fireworks, and even clam fishing. Oak Bluffs is also home to annual events that draw A-list crowds such as the African American Film Festival, the annual White Party, and, of course, Spike Lee Joints! Believe me when I say I’ll be sneaking into Spike’s party in the future! To this day, the Inkwell and the town of Oak Bluffs represents a mainstay of peace and refuge for Black people to just be. I certainly feel it every time my feet touch the sand.

Circuit Avenue

The Main Strip in Oak Bluffs. Complete with ice cream shops, gift stores, restaurants, a grocery store, an arcade, and the spirit of this town. You can find Black-owned gift shop C’est la Vie and restaurant, Sarah Brown’s there. BOMB! One of my favorite places to be on this island!

Menemsha

This fishing village, in the town of Chilmark, is characterized by old fashioned fishing shacks, inexpensive seafood eats, beautifully colored boats, and the fictional Amity Island location for renowned movie, “Jaws.”

Of note, there are 2 recorded fugitive slaves—although off the record there were likely so many more!—who made it to freedom at Menemsha. Their names were Randall Burton and Edgar Jones. Say their names. Members of the Wampanoag American Indian Tribe hid them and aided them in getting on ships that came into this harbor. As a result, Menemsha has rightfully earned its place on the African American Heritage Trail of Martha’s Vineyard.

In addition to its historical ties to Black History and Black Freedom, this harbor offers very popular front row seats to the most exquisite sunset in Life. And y’all. When that sun goes down here—with the clashing waves in the background—it is TRULY a sight to behold. 

Edgartown Lighthouse

This lighthouse serves as the entrance to Edgartown Harbor and Katama Bay. It’s 1 of 5 lighthouses in Martha’s Vineyard and definitely my fave! The lighthouse was first built out of wood in 1828 because of the multitude of vessels that frequented the harbor throughout the whaling industry boom of the late 1700s and 1800s. The lighthouse has been through several repairs and restorations throughout the years and was finally painted its iconic white color in 1988. That paint is as old as I am, y’all! Each year, the lighthouse is adorned with a wreath and lights for the holiday season. And you better believe I can’t wait to see!

The Jaws Bridge

The infamous film, “Jaws” was filmed right on Martha’s Vineyard in 1975. This movie remains one of my father’s favorites to watch…and the sole reason he will not go far out into any ocean to this day. See below for proof!

The American Legion Memorial Bridge was captured in the movie and is now an island landmark. The 2 lane wooden bridge sits 15 feet above the water on Beach Road and serves as the dividing line between Edgartown and Oak Bluffs. Now every summer, you can see tourists assuming their summer rite of passage by jumping from this very bridge. Cars even honk while driving by and taking in all the jumps, flips, and belly flops! I won’t be making the jump anytime soon (ever?), but cheers to those who take the leap summer 2021 (hopefully we have a summer)! I’m just here for the historic relevance and the stunning rock jetty.

The Vincent House

Built in 1672, this home is the island’s oldest surviving residence. I’m just here for the gardens. The home was moved to its current location in 1977, and still contains original woodwork, glass, hardware, and brick. And the original house still sits right on the property grounds. The Vincent House is now a museum that documents island life throughout the centuries. On the property grounds lives the most stunning garden which makes for incredible photo ops!

Edgartown Village District

The first thing I said when I got to Edgartown: “There sure is a lot of white + grey here!” The colors absolutely are not indicative of the richness in history. During the early 18th to mid-19th century, whaling contributed significantly to Martha’s Vineyard economy. Edgartown was the center of the island’s whaling activities. So the sea captains’ homes?! Oh, they were niiiiiiice!! They are not nearly as colorful as the cottages of Oak Bluffs, but there is a preppy, pristine air about them. Heavily congregated on North and South Water Streets, many sea captain homes face the harbor. The majority of the homes are vernacular timber frame houses and cottages built with Federal Style and Greek Style. Many of the homes also include a rooftop Widow’s Walk—named as such for wives who lost their captains at sea—so families could watch the ships come into the harbor.

As the whaling days came to an end, Martha’s Vineyard became more well-known as a vacation retreat as opposed to a whaling epicenter. Now sea captain mansions—after passing through several family generations—are some of the island’s most popular inns and Bed and Breakfasts. Perhaps I’ll give one a try come one summer.

Flying Horses Carousel

The oldest platform carousel in the nation! The carousel was built by Charles Dare from New York Carousel Manufacturing in 1876 and is one of only two Dare carousels still standing. This attraction was first built on Coney Island, but was relocated to Oak Bluffs in 1884. The brightly painted wooden horses actually have manes and tails of real horse hair! The ride is complete with a traditional ring assembly from the Victorian era. During the ride, you can attempt to grab a brass ring (from a dispenser also full of iron rings) and if you are successful, you get a free ride. You can also toss the rings at a target just for fun! Definitely worth seeing! 

Aquinnah Cliffs

Aquinnah was settled by the Wampanoag Tribe, NOT “pilgrims.” The Wampanoag believe a benevolent being named Moshup dragged his foot along the journey to the cliffs, effectively helping to form the island of Noepe (Martha’s Vineyard). Moshup created Noepe and neighboring islands and taught the Wampanoag how to whale and fish. Then the pilgrims came along and you know how that goes: Widespread of nasty diseases, forced governmental systems, fake Christians and their conversion efforts, and private models of land use. The colonists also killed multitudes of of Tribal communities in battles to steal their land. Only 6 of 67 Tribal communities from the Wampanoag Nation remain in existence today. Aquinnah is so special in that it maintains Wampanoag cultural presence.
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The Wampanoag were known to hide fugitive slaves escaping to freedom. They did so despite the bounty placed on slaves which could have assisted them economically. Instead, the Tribe chose what was just, what was courageous, what was right.
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Today, the Wampanoag Tribe is governed by the Tribal Council and its cultural impact is felt throughout the island. The name of this town was changed to Gay Head, but in 1998, the name was changed back to Aquinnah as originally bestowed by the Wampanoag. The Tribe continues its traditions of beadwork, pottery, basket making, and celebrations of Cranberry Day and The Legends of Moshup Pageant.
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This part of the island, too, has its own lighthouse. The Aquinnah Lighthouse was the first lighthouse on Martha’s Vineyard. Built in response to the increased maritime traffic because of the whaling industry, the light was first turned on in November of 1799. Through the years, the lighthouse endured several revisions and even movement because of the eroding Aquinnah Cliffs. The lighthouse is open to the public through the Martha’s Vineyard Museum. And my God, the view from there is breathtaking.

Union Chapel

Remember the Oak Bluffs Campground we talked about? Well the worshipers at the camp meetings began to worry as more vacationers flocked to the island for summer visits. To the camp meeting attendees, services were supposed to be highly serious and highly religious. However, vacationers descended on the island to relax, let their hair down, and enjoy the beach.

The summer population continued to grow and Oak Bluffs Land and Wharf Co. developers noticed vacationers did not have a place to worship. They were contracted to build a church—Union Chapel—constructed in 1870. Octagonal in shape, this interdenominational worship space was built right in Wesleyan Grove, the location of the Methodist Campground. The Chapel held its first service in August of 1871 and the dedication service brought the two religious movements—the Campground worshipers and the interdenominational vacationers—together. This union was represented by flags that had red crosses on white fields. These flags flew from the Campground Tabernacle as well as the Chapel.

Throughout the years, this Chapel has seen world-renowned preachers of all denominations, political events, town meetings, and even graduations. I hear Everyone attends services on Sunday mornings and each Sunday dons a new guest preacher—like Rev. Calvin Butts of Abyssinian Baptist Church— and the pews fill in with Black dignitaries and elected officials. It’s a good idea to arrive at least 40 minutes before service starts because seats do fill quickly! Hoping I get to sit in for a sermon one future summer.

Thank y’all always for following along on my journey! Official tour guide coming soon!

xx,

Photos by Tina Smith