Well, this post was absolutely a long time coming. As you all know, I love to leave you with a travel guide for anywhere I’ve lived. We have one for Atlanta and Martha’s Vineyard and now we have one for Harlem. When I initially moved to the island of Manhattan, my plan was to create a general guide for NYC. I quickly learned the scope of things to do and see is far too vast, so I decided to narrow in on one specific neighborhood: my beloved Harlem. When I tell you this community got me through my NYC living experience, I mean just that. I truly wish I had been able to live there. If I had, maybe I would not have rushed (as much) to get back home. For those who are curious, I lived in East Harlem which is the neighborhood on the other side of 5th Avenue. And no, my loves, East Harlem is not the same as HARLEM. Harlem is Black culture. Harlem is Black-grown. Harlem is in a lane all by itself. I came this close to moving there, but decided to save money and thug it out in my rent stabilized apartment instead. Trust me when I say I spent nearly all of my downtime crossing over 5th Avenue and heading to the westside to feed my soul…and my stomach. I won’t pretend I’m an absolute aficionado on the region. I’ll leave that title to the Harlemites I’ve met and appreciate tremendously. I have compiled a list of places and spaces I’ve patronized or at least heard about and added to my list of to-do’s. I hope you all enjoy and I hope you feel like Harlem is home to you just like I felt Harlem was home to me…unless you are an enemy of progress trying to gentrify this beautiful neighborhood! Ok, without further adieu:
Where to Stay:
I typically stick to major hotel chains instead of boutique hotels when I travel, so that’s what I’ll review here.
Renaissance Hotel – this hotel is centrally located right on the main thoroughfare of iconic 125th street and right next to Apollo Theater. This hotel is part of the beautiful renovation or the original Victoria Theater and has a restaurant and rooftop deck that sit below the hotel rooms. More on that below! I can’t wait to stay here as a guest!
Aloft Harlem – this boutique hotel is centrally located as well; positioned closely to Magic Johnson Theater. Stunning art deco vibes abound here and there are plenty restaurants close by.
Where to Eat:
When I first got to the city, I was missing soul food so badly. I hopped on the 102 bus, crossed over to the westside, and that problem was solved.
King Barka – 3 words: six dollar plates!! This spot blew up seemingly overnight with their social media videos about their plates full of food for just 6 bucks. And y’all, the food is GOODT! They pack their plates to the brim and they’re open 24 hours. You definitely want to end a night of dancing and funning here. Get the jerk chicken with the sauce and thank me later!
Harlem Hops – this spot is perfect for a night out or a drink after work. Lots of fun beer flavors to try here.
Settepani – the coziest bistro with good eats and great pastries. I remember the first time I started shooting photos in Harlem, this restaurant allowed me to change in their restroom free of charge. I was a regular customer ever since. The perfect spot for a warm drink, a full meal, and/or a quick snack.
Renaissance Harlem – they have a great happy hour! The truffle mac n cheese is *chef’s kiss!
The Victoria – Harlem did their big one with this spot! This lounge and rooftop area sit below the Renaissance Hotel (mentioned above) and exude Harlem’s beautiful history. The original staircase from The Victoria Theater is preserved and sits in all her glory in the lobby. The elevators have glamorous photos of the likes of Josephine Baker and there’s a staircase that lights up with the names of all the jazz greats! There is a stunning larger than life-sized portrait of Billie Holiday on the furthest wall of the lounge and a beautiful view of Harlem on the other side. You definitely want to add this spot to your list!
Brunch Harlem – I love this place so much! It’s a bit nostalgic because this is where the Black residents in my program had our first get-together when I was an intern. Formerly known as B2, this restaurant has stunning outdoor and indoor space. Get the mac n cheese and the sinner’s paradise drink!
Harlemite – great Peruvian cuisine and beautiful outdoor space. Their murals are so beautiful!
Juicery Harlem – my favorite spot for acai bowls. The Nutella Bowl is my go-to order. They also have plenty juices, smoothies, and pastries to try.
Edge Harlem – this spot is in such a nice, quiet corner of the neighborhood. Brunch here is definitely a vibe!
Slutty Vegan Harlem – one thing I’m going to do is support Pinky! I am just so proud of and inspired by her. I was elated when her Harlem restaurant opened. To know she started her career in Harlem and lost her restaurant there and to then see how far she’s come with her franchise and community empowerment endeavors?! The vegan burgers are so good and make you forget you’re even eating vegan. The names of the menu items are hilarious and the employees’ energy is always on 10! Go support, y’all!
Harlem Chocolate Factory – I just love this place. The chocolates are divine and the larger chocolate bars are in the shape of brownstones. In love.
The Porch – this spot is a vibe. Come here for brunch and live music. You might just catch my brother, Saxophonist Aaron Bazzell , during one of his shows!
Sea and Sea Fish Market – my Auntie and I definitely fell in love with this place. It’s hands down one of our faves. Fresh seafood here AND you can get food by the pound and have them steam it for you to create a seafood boil on the spot. Our minds were blown when we stumbled upon this gem. Once your food comes out of the steamer, have them add some seasoning and some butter and you’ve got lunch and dinner.
Sottocasa – best pizza in the city. That is all. Oh, and get the 4 Stagioni.
Row House – great jazz brunch here!
Underbar – this cocktail bar sits right underneath Row House and is a bit of a Harlem secret I’m told. Live music and late night eats/drinks here!
Vegan Hood – more vegan options right in the heart of Harlem.
Maison Harlem – the cutest Parisian restaurant!
Teranga – I ate here quite a bit. Their jollof bowls are beyond delicious. Their ingredients are so fresh. Their juices are amazing too. This spot hosts live events where you can mix and mingle. It’s a great place to eat good and meet cool people.
Harlem Tavern – always a vibe! Great drinks and plenty outdoor seating. This is a great after work spot.
Tsion Cafe – the Ethiopian cuisine is simply divine. My brother took me here for my birthday intern year. So good!
Melba’s – ICONIC. Definitely a Harlem cornerstone and somewhere you should go.
BLVD – Y’ALL ALREADY KNOW!!! This is my spot! My favorite spot! To me, they do the best version of soul food in Harlem. The vibes are immaculate. They host R&B brunches. I cannot tell you how many times I was supposed to go to resident retreat day with my co-residents and ended up here. Oops! Lol this was relaxation to me. Get Momma’s Honey Pot and the smothered biscuits!
Barawine – love this spot! One of my favorite after work joints. The truffle fries are IT!!
Amy Ruth’s – for when you want real deal old school southern Baptist soul food plates.
Red Rooster – Marcus Samuelsson is an Icon. This restaurant is always On. The food is delicious! The cornbread is my fave. They have an event space, Ginny’s Supper Club, right downstairs. My brother told me it used to be lit prior to the pandemic. I hope I can experience it one day. Can’t wait to try Marcus’s Atlanta restaurant Marcus Bar and Grille really soon!
Field Trip – the most amazing rice bowls you’ll try! The bowls represent different regions of the world and truly are cultural sensations. A must-try!
Corner Social – the food here is delicious!
Chocolat – think very decadent, sweet, rich food here. The red velvet waffles do not disappoint.
Lolo’s Seafood Shack – such a dope concept. Great seafood and you can get alcohol-infused punch drinks to go!
Lee Lee’s Baked Goods – this place is so nostalgic. The chicken wire door on the outside is just the cutest. Best rugelach I’ve had!
LA Sweets – Miss Ma’am knows what she’s doing! Everything I’ve tasted is delicious and the peach cobbler is on point!
Sugar Hill Creamery – it’s the flavors for me! Plenty to choose from and all with an amazing taste. I love how they keep us on our toes with their unique flavors and seasonally rotating menu.
Charles Pan Fried Chicken – when I first went, there was a line outside the door and down the block. I had to get in line so I could see why. The chicken is good and the sides are as well!
Harlem Shake – perfect way to satisfy your burger and shake craving.
Harlem Biscuit Co – honestly some of the best biscuits I’ve tasted and you can’t beat the prices. The perfect breakfast choice!
Harlem Wine Gallery – amazing wine tastings and events here!
Sylvia’s – another iconic spot you must add to your list for Harlem soul food!
Jacob Restaurant – soul food, but make it buffet style!
Cecil’s – I wanted to go here so badly, but they closed before I had the opportunity. Hoping they reopen soon. I’ve heard great things!
What to Do:
What is there not to do?!
Yatenga – this French bistro and bar is a good time and the Pina coladas are on point! Perfect place to stop before and/or after…
Shrine – live music, dancing, and such unique décor here. You definitely want to experience a night at Shrine!
Silvana – cute, vibey hookah spot
Minton’s Playhouse – home to so many jazz notables and the birthplace of Bebop. Come here for live music and good eats!
Uptown Night Market – where you want to be 2nd Thursdays between April and October. This open air food festival is such a fun way to discover food from various cultures and restaurants you may want to try.
Nilu Gift Shop – this spot quickly became one of my faves. Their Harlem-themed home décor is stunning. I’ve purchased so many pieces for my home. Definitely pick up your souvenirs and home knickknacks here!
Heath Gallery – I’m so glad I stumbled in one afternoon after work. I’ve learned about incredible artists like Lisa Cain and Larry Bentley here. I look forward to owning their pieces very soon. There are live events and artist chats here. Definitely go for one of their infamous HangNights where various artforms are put on full display. Tell Ms. Saundra I sent you!
Home to Harlem Art Gallery – an art gallery located in a stunning brownstone. They feature ecletic artists, live music, and poetry. They have a stunning outdoor and indoor event space as well!
The Africa Center – so many fun cultural experiences here. Check out First Fridays where you can hear music, mix, and mingle. They also host various art exhibits. This center houses Teranga restaurant (mentioned above) on the weekend.
The Apollo Theater – You gotta go! My Dad loves to regale us with stories of how he along with other kids would sneak to the staircase to watch James Brown perform! I treated myself to an Amateur Night performance for my birthday last year and the show did not disappoint. There’s just something so inspiring about seeing people get up on stage and just go for it. And barely anyone got boo’d despite the signs we all received at the beginning of the show. Ha! A must-see!
Apollo Theater Tour – Learn the legendary history with Mr. Billy Mitchell! You’ll get to rub the infamous tree trunk and even get up on stage and perform if you like. How many can say they actually performed at Apollo Theater?!
The Soapbox Presents – my absolute favorite activity in Harlem? Anything curated by this team! I was walking by the sound and stage setup on my favorite street in Harlem one day. One of the crew members told me to come back around 7pm and that I would be in for a treat. He did not tell one lie. I sat myself down on one of the stoops, had myself a snack, and prepared for what was the time of my life: live music, my favorite street filled to the brim with people just wanting to dance the night away, and a perfect view of the show from my stoop. Best seat in the house. I met some incredible people that first concert and we made our way to the same shared stoop space the next time! It was incredible. I am still mad I missed the R&B themed concert because THE Babyface showed up and sang down. I will definitely be making time to visit NYC for these shows. Follow them on IG and turn your notifications ON so you don’t miss any of their announcements or events!
Harlem Cycle – this place truly held me down! I needed a serious stress oulet while living in the city and exercising with Harlem Cycle provided that relief. I wanted a cycling class with music I know (Amen?!) and could vibe to while getting a workout in. The teachers are amazingly motivating and the playlist is right. When it comes to cycling studios and exercise classes, they are a tough act to follow!
Harlem Needle Arts – I had so much fun with their summer quilting classes. Couldn’t tell me nothin with the more seasoned ladies saw my work, compared it to that of Bisa Butler, and invited me to their regular classes!! Definitely sign up for their workshops. You will get a history lesson and an art class.
Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture – you could spend literally all day here getting lost in their books and archives. This library houses a great deal of Black cultural materials and research. Check out their Lit Fest where you can attend lectures and shop Black. It’s like a festival for history nerds. Loved it! And be sure to check out their bookstore where you can shop a plethora of great reads!
Harriet Tubman Memorial – at St Nicholas Ave, West 122nd and Frederick Douglass Blvd. Go say what up to my girl Harriet!
Frederick Douglass Memorial – at 301 Frederick Douglass Cir. Go say what up to my guy Frederick!
Bill’s Place – live, intimate jazz shows here.
Malcolm Shabazz Harlem Market – love this place! This spot houses beautiful, authentic African fabrics, fans, clothing, jewelry, you name it! You can even get clothing custom and tailor made!
National Jazz Museum in Harlem – this spot was such a treat. The exhibit, displays, and history-telling are so well done. They even have an interactive station where you can play music. Entry is free, but leave a tip to support!
Magic Johnson Theater – I had so many fun afternoons treating myself to the movies here! The wall space is filled with beautiful imagery of all the Black greats in show biz and movie posters from iconic Black films. Love this place!
Trintage – if you enjoy vintage shopping, this is the place for you! The store’s décor is so dope and the pieces are truly eclectic.
Strivers’ Row – y’all know how I feel about brownstones and I had to see these. These homes were owned by so many Harlem notables like Eubie Blake, Adam Clayton Powell, and Bill Bojangles Robinson. These rows of homes still have the horse carriage areas attached to the homes. I’m told these are the only streets in Harlem where you can cross alleys between homes without leaving the block. Such a site to see.
Harlem Haberdashery – the clothing and designs here are so unique. I definitely aspire to own something from them. Be on the lookout for the events they host!
Rucker Park – home to many basketball greats! Gotta come here to see an iconic ball game play out! Their tournaments are legendary.
Cotton Club – experience one of the most iconic Harlem Renaissance cornerstones in a modern way. This spot has been revamped and serves up offerings of live music, dinner, and dancing.
Dance Theater of Harlem – the incredibly talented dance troupe. You must see one of their shows!
Black Gotham Tours – walk the city and learn various aspects of NYC history with a guide! They have a Harlem Renaissance-focused tour.
Dapper Dan – it is still on my bucket list to meet and have an article of clothing designed by Dapper Dan. He makes pieces by appointment only. Can’t wait to do this one day!
Where to Praise:
I mostly attended church online during my stay in NYC, but I wanted to mention the churches below!
Abyssinian Baptist Church – Auntie and I attended an Easter service and it was absolutely wonderful. The choir is simply amazing and so was the message. This church was once pastored by Rev. Adam Clayton Powell and the late great Rev. Dr. Calvin Butts.
First Corinthian Baptist Church – I did not get to go, but from what I’ve seen and heard, there is great worship and Word here!
And there you have it! My Harlem faves. It’s no wonder I was drawn to Harlem. I have roots here. My Dad was born right at Harlem Hospital and was brought home to W 123rd St. He showed me the brownstone when I first moved to NYC. While working through this list, I realized just how much I saw and did during my time in the city. I’m so proud. In any city I live, I want to actually see that city and be able to tell people what I enjoyed and what I recommend trying. I want to be able to say I truly lived and explored there. I’ve done just that. I hope you all enjoy. Bonus for anyone looking for a quick general guide to NYC:
Hotels:
Renaissance Harlem
Aloft Harlem
The Conrad
Nomo SoHo
Park Lane
Food:
BLVD
Melba’s
Red Rooster
Harlem Biscuit Co
Underbar
Omar’s Kitchen
Nomo Kitchen
Jack’s Wife Frieda
Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi
Magnolia Bakery
Figo
Culture:
The MET Museum
National Jazz Museum
The Apollo
Heath Art Gallery
Home to Harlem Art Gallery
Broadway
Schomberg Center for Research in Black Culture
Rise NYC
The Ride NYC
Night Life:
Shrine
Yatenga
Underbar
Silva’s
Africa Center
First Saturdays at Brooklyn Museum
Rooftops:
Top of the Rock
Edge NYC
Nubeluz by Jose
Shopping:
Trintage
Farm Rio
Andrea Iyamah
Anywhere in SoHo
Canal Street
Fe Noel
I hope this travel guide inspires you to explore right where you are!
xx,
Photos by Sweetie Mensah and Dadou Studios
